A fine 30 mile broad reach down to Travemunde allowed our Aries finally to prove its worth.

The great square rigger Passat marks the entrance to the river. A splendid sentinel.

From here it is 10 miles up the Trave River to Lübeck, tomorrow’s epic journey. Tonight at Marina Baltica we have the pleasure of watching big ships maneuvering in the turning area close beside us.

The following day surrounded by Lubeck’s great copper spires, Blue Dove lies opposite elderly ships at the maritime museum. In warm evening sun I sit under Marienkirche’s west front sipping wine and listening to the choir rehearsing a Bach cantata. You wouldn’t be dead for quids!

The majestic brick gothic buildings of Lubeck, much restored after the war, gave this city well-deserved world heritage listing. In the cathedral there is a touching shrine – smashed carillon bells lie on the ground as they fell during Allied bombing in 1942.

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