Haapsalu is said to have some of the finest mud in Northern Europe. Peter the Great, Catherine and Tchaikovsky came here for mud bath therapy. I, with my tedious trochanteric bursitis, should have indulged as they did. Instead, armed with ibuprofen and paracetamol in veterinary doses, I cycled through the old town with Miss Perfect and marvelled at the fine timber dwellings.
Tallinn is getting closer, but oh so slowly.