Such a relief to leave the Neva headwaters at Schlisselburg, out into Lake Ladoga. Schlisselburg itself has almost nothing to offer cruising yachts but we found the cosy little retreat recommended to us by our Danish friend Asgar and spent a calm night there.
Passing the Orochek Fortress (known as the Tsarist bastille) we finally escaped the relentless Neva current. 25 miles north an offshore breeze kicked in and at last we were sailing. Madam was overjoyed and would not let go the helm.